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The Journal · The Shore

Shelling the Islands of Vietnam

A wooden fishing boat, a handful of islands, and beaches with nobody on them but monkeys.

By Aaron, founder & maker

The bow of a wooden boat, weathered green planks and a coil of rope, pointed across open water toward a row of islands under a low sun
The bow of the boat, heading for the islands.

A wooden fishing boat, a handful of islands in Vietnam, and some beaches with nobody on them but monkeys. I went looking for shells and found ones I’d never seen before. A few of these will end up as pieces.

I live in Kailua-Kona, and most of what I gather comes from the shores of Hawaiʻi. But I have been beachcombing for years, and shelling trips are part of it: Florida, Vietnam, other shores. I wrote about that in Our Story. Recently I went shelling on remote islands in Vietnam. These are the photos.

The boat

A private wooden fishing boat took me around. Weathered green planks, a coil of rope on the bow, and islands ahead.

Beaches to myself

Some of the islands I had to myself. Shelling on an island in Vietnam, with the whole beach to myself.

An empty sand beach scattered with small stones and shell fragments, a green rocky hill at the far end, a low building in the trees, and more islands across the water
Nobody else on the sand.

“This is the part of the work nobody sees: walking slowly, looking down.”

Aaron smiling on a sandy beach in a tan cap and a hooded sun shirt, wearing a shell-bead necklace and a chain, with a rocky island across the water behind him
Me, on one of the beaches. Hood up.

Monkeys and a yellow building

One beach was not empty. There were wild monkeys on it: on the sand, on the driftwood, and on the roof of an abandoned yellow building at the back of the beach. The yellow paint is worn and plants are growing up in front of it. I do not know what the building was, so I will not guess.

A grey-brown monkey with a pink face sitting on a pale driftwood branch under a tree, looking to the side, with a length of green rope tied to the branch above it
One of the monkeys, on a driftwood branch.
A single-storey building with weathered yellow walls, white columns, a white balustrade and patterned window grilles, with two monkeys sitting on the edge of its flat roof
The yellow building. Two monkeys on the roof.

Between the cliffs

One stop was a strip of sand under grey rock. Another was a cove between two tall cliffs, with clear green water. I walked each one slowly, looking down.

A curved sand beach under steep grey rock cliffs with green growth, small waves coming in, a small island offshore, and scattered debris along the top of the sand
A strip of sand under the rock.
Aaron smiling in a tan cap and a hooded sun shirt at the edge of a small cove, with green water, pale rocks in the sand and two tall rock cliffs behind him
The cove between the cliffs.
A few seconds of the trip: the boat, the cove, the monkeys, an evening beach. No sound.

Coconuts with strangers

On one island I was alone until some local fishermen happened to stop there. We worked together to get coconuts down from a tree and open them, and then we drank them together. I did not expect that part of the day, and it is the part I think about most.

Two men seen from behind at the foot of a coconut palm, one in a woven hat reaching up with a long pole toward a cluster of green coconuts, the other in a hooded shirt beside him, with thick green hillside behind
Getting the coconuts down, with a long pole.

There were butterflies everywhere. Massive birds flew over me. It was a special day, connecting with nature.

What I found

I found many beautiful shells that I had never seen before. Every one of them was found. I do not buy shells.

A close view of many small found shells lying together, among them cowries, cone shells, spotted and striped snail shells and ribbed clam shells in white, lavender, brown and cream, with one piece of dark green glass
Some of what I found, up close.

I picked up some coral too. I admired it, and I put it back. No coral came home.

A beach in evening light under a dark rock cliff, the sun low behind clouds over the water, with driftwood and scattered debris on the upper sand
Evening, on the last beach in these photos.

What happens next

I plan to use some of these shells in future pieces. That is a plan, not a promise, and there is no date on it. The shells I work with are most often cleaned, tumbled, polished and wet-drilled by hand on my lapidary wheels, and it starts with sorting. After a Day of Collecting shows that part.

If you want to see the shells I usually work with at home, my guide to Hawaiian shells covers them. The finished pieces are in the collection.

Such a fun adventure.

— Aaron

See where the shells end up

One-of-a-kind shell bolo ties, hand-finished in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaiʻi. There is only one of each.

View the Collection